Off road device design progress

I mirrored the off road device design for the first time... looks like TOO much triangulation. Will have to work out how much the bare frame is going to weigh next. It *looks* safe.

SBC heater flange plate

I made this part for the left hand coolant channel on a GM SBC that has the heater return right under the left hand water pump flange. I'm using block adapters for an electric water pump so there was no off the shelf solution. Really happy with how this turned out - I think modelling the part and working from that model really helped.

Off road device

So I'm pretty keen to build a racecar (probably an R1 powered locost) but before I jump in the deep end I thought I'd take on something smaller to test my fabrication skills. I've started by doing some modelling on computer - this amazing racecar building site gave me the idea and motivation. Already the design in my head has changed from a side-by-side arrangement to having the motor and axle mounted on the rear suspension subframe.

Doing the Doohicky

In order to get the KLR 650 up to a bullet-proof, simpson desert crossing (hah!) level of reliability, one of the things that has to be changed out is the balncer shafter tensioner lever. Understandably, folks call it the doohicky. Here is the process for doing your doohicky:

Mine is the red 04 KLR, the green one is an 08.

Plastics, tank and shifter removed:

Fed Up!

The intricacies of extracting power from the stock audi donk have finally got the better of me and I'm moving in an entirely different direction. What follows is part one of converting the car to old school muscle car power: small block chev.

Starting with a final few tear-filled shots of the EFIed garrett setup that so much time was spent on:

Now the exhaust, intake and cooling systems are ripped off:

Junk in the trunk

I was pretty happy with the last set of speakers I built for my sister and her husband but I made some last minute changes to the drivers I usually use. This resulted in much smoother mids and highs but I felt there was a hole in the low end probably around 350Hz. The solution: a 200W active sub with a nice big 10" poly cone driver!

Here is how the plan started:

Clamping, gluing and screwing followed:

Fuel rail complete

The engine bay is just about finished now with the fuel situation sorted. The sard adjustable FPR works nicely and I finally have a fuel rail that doesn't leak. After a few experiments trying to seal the injectors externally I had a machine shop mill the holes in some extrusion and the end result is a big improvement. No leaks and the whole lot sits much lower than previously.

Also I managed to create the worlds smallest airfilter to clear the sway bar. Its a chopped front of a unifilter:

Back on the road

Well I've sorted out the noise in the tach signal and started the arduous (but fun) process of tuning. It's all running super rich but I'm slowly bringing the cruise and low power sections of the map into line. Here is a pic after a wash and polish: